Female divers of Jeju-do - a talk with Brenda Paik Sunoo

Jeju-do- the island of the wind, volcanic rocks and women. Haenyeo is the name of the most well known group of women on Jeju-do. Haenyeos are the female divers, who formed a martriarchic society unlike the rest of the country. It’s been proven that people in Korea and Japan have been diving for seafood for 1,500 years. When higher taxes have been introduced in the 17th century , men started to stay at home while women were excused from taxes and continued diving. In Korea which is characterized by Confucianism, women have to subordinate. Therefore the reigning in Seoul tried to ban women from diving - without results. They continued diving to provide for the family, while men raised the children.

The Haenyeos are still diving without breathing gear today. In the past with cotton suits, now with modern wetsuits. Today Hanyeos are disappearing and from the last remaining 2000 (rough estimation in 2007) 50% and more are over 60 years old. These women, who had been working hard all their life, whose health had taken damage, wishing for a different future for their daughters. On the one hand modern Korea offers better opportunities, on the other hand the yield silmutaneously decreases with the increase in pollution of the ocean. Soon the last Haenyeo might put her suit aside, gazing at the ocean and reminisce. Not until 15 years ago Brenda Paik Sunoo says, author of “Moon Tides - Jeju Island Grannies of the sea” the Haenyeos started to receive the recognition they deserve. “I do feel it´s important for the legacy of the Haenyeo a for the younger generation to appreciate the sacrifices they made to Korea’s history.”

The association founded by the Haenyeo were leading the independence movement in 1932 against the Japanese colonial rule. In 1948 a revolt against the right government occurred which had been brutally fought back by the police and army. Thousands lost their lives. “The people in Jeju-do have such a nature to be persistent. I guess it is my nature anyway because Korean nature is persistent”, Brenda Paik Sunoo says.

Even in recent events people on Jeju-do have to persevere because the government is planning to build a military basis, where Americans will be positioned even though the Jeju-do is named “The island of Peace” and is a UNESCO World Natural Heritage.

“The island is very mystical. Of course it’s connected with the seasons because Jeju-do is surrounded by the ocean, it is, like all islands, very spiritual. Jeju-do has so much, what makes it magical. The black volcanic rocks in contrast to the aquamarine colored water and the cherry blossoms in spring.”

A part of this magic will be lost when the plans of the government will be implemented. It will disappear just like the culture of the Haenyeos. Since 2006 there is a museum and school, where interested people can learn what it means to be a diver on Jeju-do. This way at least the history will be preserved. One changes with an encounter with the Haenyeos. Brenda Paik Sunoo met the Haenyeo the first time in the 80s and was fascinated by them and their tradition. Now she reflects, that she could not understand their true life culture and feelings. Through living with them while doing research for her book she learned how much meaning her life still has even with great age. This is how the wonderful photographic album, an interesting piece of history culture and even more, a story of life was created. The seven chapters are dealing with struggle of survival, of shamanism, of family, aging and the future. Ever since the author of “Moon Tides” has written the book, she has been living more consciously, eats healthier, does sports and takes care of her garden. She says, the Haenyeos have influenced her emotionally, physically, mentally and spiritually. One senses the influence in her book and feels a deep prudence and peace when Brenda Paik Sunoo talks. In our fast moving time and fast food society one wishes that more people would listen to the stories of the Haenyeos. Stories of resistance and dedication, that more people learn to live with the rhythm of nature and the tides. “Moon Tides” sets a beginning. It makes aware, which luxurious problems our generation can afford- problems, for which the Haenyeo cannot waste their time on.

Beginning of April Brenda Paik Sunoo went back to Jeju-do, she will stay for four months to study Korean, visit the diving school and to work on new projects. She says each time when she was on Jeju-do, her appreciation for life there grew stronger. Years ago she came as a curious tourist, turned into an explorer and now came back as a friend. “I think, one learns more about culture when making friends”, she says and concludes with a story of a former Haenyeo, which has touched her tremendously.

Hong Suk-Ja was born in 1953. With the age of 29 she dived for the last time. In 1982 she crossed the street and got hit by a truck. The drunk driver hit the brakes and ran over Hong Suk-Ja two more times. She had been unconscious for three days and even though the doctors said that the young woman will not survive, she did. After six years in hospital she could be released. Hong Suk-Ja can neither dive nor walk but she is running a little shop on Jeju-do. Brenda Paik Sunoo remembers how Hong Suk-Ja promised to gift her a traditional diving suit of the Haenyeo. Years passed until she returned to Jeju-do. In the meantime Hong Suk-Ja has moved but fortunately everybody knows each other and that is how both women found each other and the promise could be kept. The cotton diving suit is a symbol for the history of Jeju-do and a personal souvenir in remembrance of the story of two women, who have a lot to tell and those stories one hopefully will still be listening to hereafter.

Website: Brenda Paik Sunoo

(Source: facebook.com)